What photography techniques does Scott Kivowitz recommend for using a 35mm lens effectively?

I do not have a specific video or article in front of me where I walk through “how to use a 35mm” step by step, but I can share how I personally like to use a 35mm based on the same principles I teach elsewhere.

Here is how I recommend getting the most from a 35mm:

• Work close and tell context-rich stories
  A 35mm is perfect for environmental portraits and storytelling scenes. Instead of standing back and cropping, physically move closer to your subject so the background supports the story (their room, workspace, street, etc.) without overwhelming them. Try chest‑up or full‑body portraits where the environment matters.

• Use it as your “walk‑around” lens
  Treat 35mm as your default lens for travel, family, and street photography. It is wide enough to show the scene but not so wide that it distorts heavily. Spend a full day shooting only at 35mm; this trains your eye to “see” in that focal length and improves your composition instinct.

• Control background with distance, not zoom
  Since you cannot zoom, use your feet. Step closer for stronger subject impact and more background blur (especially at f/1.4–f/2), and step back when you want more of the environment sharp. Think consciously about your subject–background distance: the further your subject is from the background, the smoother that background will look.

• Mind edge clutter and distortion
  At 35mm, edges can easily pick up distractions (trash cans, bright signs, cut‑off people). Before pressing the shutter, scan the frame edges. Take half a step left or right to simplify. If you are very close to a face, be careful not to place them too close to the edges to avoid subtle stretching.

• Use light like you would for portraits
  From my portrait lighting teaching: even with natural light, watch for direction and quality. A 35mm works beautifully with:

  • Window light at about 45° to the subject
  • Open shade outdoors with a bright open sky as your main source
  • Simple one‑light setups (softbox or umbrella) where you keep the subject a bit separated from the background to avoid harsh shadows and clutter

• Shoot at a variety of apertures
  Do not live only at wide open:

  • f/1.4–f/2 for subject separation and mood
  • f/2.8–f/4 for environmental portraits where you want face sharp and background recognizable
  • f/5.6–f/8 for street or documentary scenes where multiple subjects need to be in focus

• Compose with foreground elements
  Because 35mm is moderately wide, it reacts well to foreground interest. Place objects close to the lens (a wall edge, a door frame, foliage) to frame your subject and add depth. Just keep those foreground elements soft enough that they do not compete with your subject.

• Practice low‑light work
  A fast 35mm is a great low‑light tool. Combine:

  • Wide aperture
  • Slightly slower shutter speeds than you might with a telephoto (start around 1/125 and go slower only if your subject is relatively still)
  • Higher ISO when needed
    Use stable handholding technique or a monopod/tripod if the light gets very low.

If you tell me what you mainly photograph (people, travel, street, indoors, events), I can give you a small 35mm “starter playbook” tailored to that.

What do you use your 35mm for most often right now?